After a couple of days in Korcula town we were done with people and busy anchorages and the wind was perfect to head out to the island of Lastovo, so we went with the wind.
The next week was island cruising and we swam and sailed, sailed and swam. We actually ended up giving the main island of Lastovo a miss and seeking some solitude, we found a nice quiet spot on the islet of Saplun just off it’s eastern tip. It was a wonderful place where we snorkeled, swam and celebrated Damian’s birthday in an idyllic location. There were a few other boats around, but compared to where we had come from it was blissfully quiet. At night a couple of local fishing boats anchored near us briefly to sort out their nets before heading out into the star filled night.
We then dipped back to west Korcula, got charged for anchoring again and then headed out to the islands of Vis and Bisevo and its Blue Grotto. Heather and I were here in 2004 and then there was no tourist infrastructure at all in connection with the Grotto – we simply swam into the cave and were amazed. How things change! You can’t enter the cave on your own anymore – you need to go with an “official tour boat” and to do that you need to pay handsomely for the pleasure of joining the official queue and wait an hour or so till your boat departs for your 8 min tour of the cave… sure, the cave is still fantastic, but the charm has been lost in the thousands of people that are whisked through it daily.
In short, if you are in the area, don’t go – the spot has been turned into another tourist milking machine with some tour boats taking people on a 6 hour return trip for the 8 min experience! If you do visit on your own yacht, the surrounding area is deep (50m or so) so unless you are a super yacht, with oodles of chain anchoring is out of the question…but, the Blue Grotto people have kindly put some mooring bouys out for you to use…although unfortunately they are so close together that all the yachts bang into each other when using them. How thoughtful.
The rest of the week was spent sailing between idyllic blue bays, swimming, eating and sipping the occasional cocktail. It was all very relaxing and a lot of fun, but somehow we were struggling with Croatia as a cruising destination, so far we haven’t bonded with the place – we can’t put our fingers on it, but it just doesn’t seem to be working for us…hmmmm.